Pattern: Base body of man

Spanish version here

Today I bring you a really useful pattern, the man base body. I am crossplayer and the fact that I always have to eliminate the pleats always gives me headaches. So finding this little pattern will be a great help. As I hope it’s for you all too.

In class  we use a more industrial method, so maybe for sizes very different to the 40 might vary a bit. Measurements, the few ones,  in cm. Make the conversion to inches if you need it. ~~~~

PATTERN OF THE MASCULINE BASE BODY:

  • Needed measurements: Height, chest, waist, hip, neck, shoulder’s length, sleeve length, wristband width, height of crotch depth (Look at “Measurements“. For taking this measurement, you have to measure sitting on a chair from your waist to the sit).
  • Measurements to calculate:

-Waist height= 1/4 of height.

-Depth of back armhole/ Depth of front armhole= 1/8 chest + 1/4 waist height.

-Back neckline= 1/20 chest + 2,5 cm.

-Armhole width= 1/8 chest – 2cm.

-Back width= 1/4 chest – 1/2 armhole width.

-Chest width= 1/4 chest – 1/2 armhole width.

-Shoulder descent= 1/20 chest-0,8 cm.

-Front neckline descent= 1/20 chest + 2,5 cm

-Necklines width= 1/20 chest + 2,5 cm

CONSTRUCTION english

  • BACK:

-1-2= Depth of back armhole.

-1-3= Waist height.

-3-4= Crotch depth height.

-1-2-3-4= Square.

-2-5= Back width.

-5-6= 1/2 armhole width.

-1-7=2-5

-Join 5-7.

-4-8= 1/4 hip.

-Join 6 and 8, finding the point 9 (waist line).

-1-10= neckline width.

-10-11= 2,5 cm (back neckline ascent).

-7-12= 1,5 cm.

-11-13= Shoulder length, passing by the point 12.

-13-6= Trace the armhole with a curve.

-Intensify final pattern.

  • FRONT:

-1-2= Depth of front armhole.

-1-3= Waist height.

-3-4= Height of crotch depth.

-In 1-2-3-4= Square.

-2-5= Chest width.

-5-6= 1/2 armhole width.

-1-7=2-5

-Join 5-7.

-4-8= 1/4 hip.

-Join the points 6 and 8, finding the point 9 (waist line).

-1-10= Descent of front neckline.

-1-11= Neckline width.

-7-12= Shoulder descent.

-11-13= Shoulder length, passing by the point 12.

-13-6= Trace armhole with a curve line.

-Intensify final pattern.

  • SLEEVE

-Measurements to calculate: Perimeter of front armhole, perimeter of back armhole, total perimeter of armhole (Front+Back armhole), height of armholes (Measure straight from the point 13 of the front and back body to the chest/back line. It’s the addition of the two measurements.)

CONSTRUCTION: manga -1-2= Sleeve length.

-1-3= Height of the sleeve top= 1/4 of armholes height.

-Square point 3, lengthening the line.

-1-4 and 1-5= 1/2 armhole perimeter.

-4-6 and 6-7= 1/3 of the measurement 1-4.

-5-9 and 9-8= 4-6 and 1-7

-7-10 and 8-11= 1,25 cm squaring the line 1-4.

-Trace the sleeve top 4-6-10-1 and 1-11-9-5.

-2-12 and 2-13= 1/2 cuff width.

-Join the points 4-12 and 5-13 (in a straight line).

-Intensify the final pattern.

I hope this helps in your projects! =) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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