Spanish version here
Hello everyone! Today I bring you one of the most important patterns in confection: the woman base body. If you have any doubt, ask right away! =)
As always, the size is the industrial 40, so the measurements are approximate.
- NEEDED MEASUREMENTS
I attach an example of the size 40.
-Perimeter of bust: 90 cm.
-Height of the 7th vertebra (your size minus 20 cm approx.): 140 cm.
-Length of shoulder: 12,5 cm.
- CALCULATION OF MEASUREMENTS:
-Height of front waist: 1/4 height of the 7th vert. + 1/10 perimeter of bust
-Height of bust: 1/10 height of the 7th vert. + 1/4 semi-perimeter of bust
-Bust width: 1/4 perimeter of bust + 1 cm
-Height of shoulder: 1/20 perimeter of bust -0,5 cm
-Height of back waist: 1/4 height of the 7th vert. + 1/10 perimeter of bust – 3cm
-Height of back: 1/10 height of the 7th vert. + 1/4 semi-perimeter of bust – 3cm
-Back width: 1/4 perimeter of bust – 1 cm
-Height of shoulder: 1/20 perimeter of bust – 1 cm
- Front body:
-A-1: Height of front waist.
-A-2: Bust height.
-Square A, 1 y 2.
-2-B: Bust width.
-1-C: Same measurement as 2-B.
-B-3: Width of front armhole= 1/20 perimeter of bust.
-3-4: Mark upwards the difference in between the height of the front waist and back waist.
-Mark D: Half of 2-3.
-Join D-4 and prolong until E, so that D-B= D-E.
-A-5: Height of front bust= 1/20 perimeter of bust+ 2,5 cm.
-A-6: Bust width= 1/20 perimeter of bust + 2,5 cm.
-Join 5-6 with curve.
-6-F: 1/10 bust perimeter + 3 cm.
-F-7: Height of front shoulder.
-G: Square 4 in the line D-E, going up 6,5 cm.
-G-8: Enter 1,5 cm approx.
-Trace the line of the armhole going through 7-8-E.
Base body adjusted to the hip:
-1-H: Hip height= 20 cm.
-H-9: Hip width= ¼ perimeter of hip + 1 cm.
-Lengthen 1 to the line before.
-Make the pleat from the point D, squaring until I. Distribute the pleat width (3 cm)= J-K.
-L: Enter the remaining measure of the waist, distributing that measurement having in mind the back body too. ((Think that the width of the waist has to be the addition of the front of back waist together))
-L-9: Give a curve form to the hip.
-D-10: You can move or reduce the vertex of the pleats.
- Back body:
-A’-1: Height of back waist.
-A’-2: Back height.
-Square A’, 1 and 2.
-2-B’: Back width.
-1-C’: Same measurement as 2-B.
-B’-3: Width of back armhole= 1/20 perimeter of bust.
-Trace perpendicular through the point 3.
-A’-4: Bust width= 1/20 perimeter of bust + 2,5 cm.
-4-D’: 1/10 perimeter of bust + 3 cm.
-4-E’: Trace perpendicular through the point 4. Go up 1 cm.
-A’-5: Go down 1 cm.
-Trace line of bust E’-5 with curve.
-D’-6: Height of back shoulder.
-3-F’: Go up 9 cm approx.
-F’-7: Get in 1 cm approx.
-Trace armhole line going through 6-7-B’.
Base body adjusted to the hip:
-1-G’: Hip height= 20 cm.
-G’-8: Hip width= ¼ perimeter of hip – 1 cm.
-Join B’-8 with a straight line.
-H’-I’: Middle of 2-3= Mark pleat and square to the hip.
-J’-K’: Distribute the pleat width (3 cm).
-L’: Enter the remaining measure of the waist, distributing that measurement having in mind the front body too. ((Think that the width of the waist has to be the addition of the front of back waist together))
-L’-8: Give a curve form to the hip.
-A-1: Length of sleeve.
-A-2: Height of the sleeve top= 3/10 of the armhole perimeter (Measure it from your back and front body).
-B-2/ 2-C: Sleeve width= ½ of the arm width.
-B-2/ C-2= B’-A/ C’-A
-Trace the inner square for drawing the sleeve top.
-3 and 4: ½ of B-B’ y C-C’.
-A-5: 1/10 of armhole perimeter +1 cm.
-A-6: 1/10 of the armhole perimeter.
-B-7: ½ of A-5.
-Trace straight line from 5-7 and from 6-8.
-Draw the top sleeve with the help of the straight lines.
-D-1/ 1-E: ½ cuff width.
-Join B-D and C-E.
-When you finish, you should have 1 piece of the front body, with the center symmetrical (in Spanish is marked as “al LOMO/Alomado”). So you have to trace the left piece as the right too. Seams at 1 cm and hems at 3,5 cm (this measure varies depending on your liking).
-Two sleeves, seams at 1 cm and hems at 2 cm (This measurement also depends on what you want).
I hope this helps you all! Any doubt, ask me. ^^